Our Mt. Kilimanjaro Climb

Farouk and I made it to Uhuru peak, the roof of Africa at 5985m! But before we get there it is worth telling you the journey that led to that incredible point.

Day 1 (Machame Gate (1828m) to Machame Huts (3032m))

The first day began with us meeting our guides Sifuel and Frank, our cook Ahdam and our 7 cheerful and laughing porters. It was overwhelming to think that the two of us were going to need 10 people to get us up the mountain but as we later learnt – we did. Farouk was one of the boys quickly as he conversed and joked with the crew in Swahili and I was adopted as Mama “T”. My Swahili came later. The climb began in the Cloud Forest, a tropical paradise with beautiful flowers, large palms and an abundance of ferns. It reminded me in some ways of the lush forests of British Columbia (Cathedral Grove) or the tropical forests of Brazil. However, the impatiens kilimanjari that lined the path, the bird songs and the never ending upward climb made it distinctly another world. We were met by the crew for lunch with a table and chairs set for two. After having a two course meal for which I fully indulged thinking the food could not stay this good, we set off back into the cloud forest. The landscape quickly changed as we climbed into the heather terrain. The trees looked like fireworks with their branches ending in a beautiful explosion of leaves. After 10.5 km we finally made it into camp. We enjoyed every minute of the first day. I was also very happy that I maintained the “pole-pole” (slowly-slowly) motto the whole way - even when people, that is all the porters carrying over 50lbs, the retired, the young, were passing us!

Day 2 (Machame Huts (3032m) to New Shira Camp (3847m))

After waking refreshed we started our second day with eggs, beef sausage (wieners for the less refined), toast, porridge, fresh mango, banana, papaya, hot tea, coffee…. you get the idea. The views from our breakfast table were incredible. We saw Mt. Meru and Kibo (the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro) glowing in the morning sun. It is hard to describe the hike on this day. The sounds, the smells, the views were incredible. The climb took us to 3899m before we descended to our home for the night – New Shira Camp. Unfortunately we did not make it before the rain, then hail, descended upon us. With positive attitudes and a little help from our guides on the slippery slopes, we made it. Lunch of ugali/dongo (a traditional African cornmeal dish) and vegetable meat stew was ready in the mess tent and we warmed up quickly with the constant chatter of our lively crew. That evening after the rain stopped and the sun had come out, Farouk and I went for a walk in the sunset. Mt. Meru, Shira Cathedral and the Shira plateau were glorious.

Day 3 (New Shira Camp (3847m) to Barranco Huts (3985m))

We woke early to frost on the tent. The gloves, toque and warm fleece came out and we kept moving to stay warm. By the time we started our hike on the third day the sun had come out again. The terrain changed quickly as we ascended into the Alpine desert. The motto was pole-pole as we made it to Lava Tower at a mere 4530m. After lunch there we descended along side the incredible tower which rose dramatically from the rocky slope. We slowly descended to Barranco Valley. This was my favourite camp site as the views of Barranco wall, the valley that descended below and Kibo stretching into and above the clouds were truly remarkable. Farouk began to really feel the effects of acute mountain sickness (AMS) though and had to battle the feeling of nausea, headaches and a very unhappy stomach. I was still fine although nervous that my time with AMS was yet to come.

Day 4 (Barranco Huts (3985m) to Barafu Huts (4681m))

They call Barranco Wall “Breakfast Wall” because it is the first thing that you encounter in the morning. Farouk and I had no idea what we were getting into as we began that morning at 7am with the sun shining on us. This may have been a good thing as we started climbing the wall that just seemed to go straight up. Each foot and hand had to find a hold and we slowly pushed and pulled our way to 4530m. The landscape again changed in the Alpine desert as the number of everlasting flowers decreased and the landscape became more baron. We felt as though we were walking on the moon. Just before our lunch stop the rains came as did the fog. After lunch we were unable to see 3 feet in front of us so we concentrated on following Frank’s footsteps as he brought us up and up and up. It was on this day that my Swahili, thanks to Farouk, Frank and Sifuel, started coming along. Although pole-pole was our motto, the phrases Simba mwende polle kulla nyama (The lion who goes cautiously/slowly eats meat) and haraka haraka hyena baraka (going fast is not a blessing) became our mantras. That night our home was Barafu Huts which was to be the starting point for our final summit. Barafu Huts was not the most hospitable of locations as the wind was strong and you were only accompanied by rocks. It did not matter though as you knew that this spot brought you one step closer to your goal – the summit.

Summit (Barafu Huts (4681m) to Uhuru Peak (5895m))

This stage of the trek was by far the most challenging both physically and mentally. After arriving at Barafu Huts we had an early dinner and tried to rest as we were to start our final push to the summit at 12:30pm. We were able to get about 2 hours of sleep before waking to snow on our tent. It felt like a winter wonderland as the rocky terrain was completely covered by white. The moon poked in and out of the clouds and the stars were unbelievable. We started out with a strong and steady pace even though Farouk was still suffering from moderate AMS. Unfortunately, with every step closer to the summit Farouk had to battle that much harder to make it to the top. Although I was not suffering from AMS, I did notice that the air pressure was decreasing. I concentrated on each step following closely Frank’s feet and constant rhythm. With each step forward you slid back making the effort that much harder. Farouk tried to do the same amidst vomiting, having diarrhea in -20 weather and unforgivable steep rocky slopes. The last 20 minutes to Stella Point were the hardest. Sifuel took Farouk’s arm and supported him on that last challenging stretch. Although we already appreciated our guides and crew up to this point, the strength and support from Sifuel and Frank was incredible. I really mean it when I say we would not have made it without them. When we finally reached Stella Point, Sifuel and Frank gave us a Red Bull which was a welcome treat. We did not rest long as we knew that Uhuru Peak was still 45 minutes away. Somehow Farouk was able to pull it together and this last ascent was surprisingly pleasant. The sun started to come up behind Mwenzi Peak (Mt. Kilimanjaro’s other peak) and we began to have views of the incredible and awe-inspiring southern ice fields/glaciers. It is really hard to describe the elation we felt as we approached the summit. The feeling of being at the roof of Africa, in the country of Farouk’s birth, was incredible. The knowledge we were supported to do this climb by having family, friends and colleagues donating to Out of Afrika, that the “A team” of Team Kilimanjaro was behind us every step of the way and that our loved ones were sending us loving and encouraging thoughts made the experience quite emotional. I was pretty much jumping up and down and could not take the smile off my face. Although Farouk’s elation was more reserved as he was still suffering greatly, it was no less. We had made it. Together. We were also able to make it to the summit by 5:55am in time for the sunrise – something that not many are fortunate to achieve. We stayed at the summit for only a short time as it was cold and we had to keep moving. The descent back to Barafu Huts was almost as challenging as the exhaustion and knee knacking slope required tremendous balance and effort. However, having made it to the top gave us enough strength to get back to our wonderful crew who were ready with juice, warm congratulatory handshakes and genuine happiness that we had made it.

Day 5 (Barafu Huts (4681m) to Mweka Huts (3090m)

We had one hour sleep before having to pack our bags and begin the true descent. The descent went very quickly and we were constantly amazed how high we had climbed. It was wonderful to go through each of the different terrains again, welcoming the Alpine desert, Moorland, heather, then Cloud forest. The trail we took down was different than that which we had ascended so there were some new views for us. Each step down also brought relief to Farouk which we were both relieved for. That night we kept looking at each other in disbelief. The experience we had undergone making it to the summit will be something that will stay with us with time.

Day 6 (Mweka Huts (3090m) to Mweka Gate (1641m))

There was general excitement of everyone on this day as we all knew that hot showers were waiting for us. Our crew had an extra bounce in their step. With a final breakfast (still with fresh fruit), a serenade by our crew, we set off through the cloud forest. It was as beautiful as the first day but the smells that we were met with were incredible. When you come from rocky moon-like terrain to lush forest that is warmed by the sun the senses seem to go bananas with excitement. Farouk and I walked hand in hand through the final gate proud of our accomplishment and happy that this journey had made a difference in our life and in a small way, the lives of our crew and those involved with Out of Afrika.

Summary

Doing this climb was a life-long dream of Farouk’s. I would not have been there without him. We could never have imagined the beauty of the mountain nor the challenges that it brought. The mountain demands incredible respect from each person that attempts to climb its mighty slopes. Our “A team” of Team Kilimanjaro - Sifuel, Frank, Ahdam, Ali, Yusto, Exaud (P-didi), Rasta, Stanley, Frank 2, and Nuru, were essential to bring us to the top of the mountain. They also provided us with constant inspiration as they ran up and down the slopes. This experience was awe-inspiring, enabling us to learn about the region, the people including the local Chagga and perhaps most profoundly about ourselves and each other. Now it is time to rest and reflect. Thank you for your constant support.

One week count down before Farouk and I arrive in Nairobi

One week count down before Farouk and I arrive in Nairobi. I am sitting in a beautiful home in Muskoka - “cottage country” just north of Toronto. I am looking at Lake Joseph in the early morning. It is grey outside and feels like fall has finally descended upon us. The deciduous trees have just started to change colour. As I sit here with a warm cup of tea I really can’t help but wonder what views we will be looking at when we are on the mountain with a warm cup of chai in hand as the morning mist rises. What will the smells be like, will the air be warm, heavy, cold, refreshing? Probably all of the above!

As we prepare for this trip people keep asking what we are doing. To be honest we are both trying to stay healthy. Unfortunately, I have come down with a brutal stomach virus. It is taking it’s time leaving me – hopefully it will be gone before thanksgiving dinner! I find it a bit ironic that Farouk’s mom, who came to my rescue on Friday night, kept on saying “this is like malaria!” Well let me tell you – I am going to do my best to avoid it! Farouk meanwhile is in Germany on a Canada-Germany exchange for young leaders. He is having a breath of experiences there with 24 other Canadians and Germans from serving hot lunches at a homeless shelter to visiting car factories and learning about business opportunities.

Other than trying to stay healthy we are maintaining our regular lifestyle. I continue to run, bike, swim (except for this past week) and Farouk continues to do whatever he can as he is on the go. Physically, I believe that the hike, while a significant challenge, will be ok. It’s the lack of air that scares me. John, of Team Kilimanjaro assures me though that if we take it slow, we will make it to the top. Slow is a hard concept for me but I am absolutely going to learn the true meaning of it on this mountain!

Packing is the other challenge that one encounters while doing this adventure. How do you prepare for tropical heat to glacial temperatures? Layering as any true Canadian knows. We are ready for that with 6 different layers to take us through the different climates. Although we have managed to prepare for this trip without buying a whole new wardrobe there were a few cool things we picked up… One was a thermal case for my nalgene bottle so on those cold days you can have a warm drink! For Farouk I am not sure whether it was the chocolate covered coffee beans that I found or his new merino wool shirt – or maybe those are my other favorite purchases! In any case we are ready!

So today, if my stomach will cooperate it is a hike with my best friend Carolyn in Muskoka. I will be sure to capture the sounds and start learning to take it slow… and just enjoy.

Will write again when I arrive in Nairobi – thanks for your support and we have a ways to go before $3000 so remember every little bit helps!

Warmly, Tenille


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